We last left each other as I was shaking in my boots trying to find my way to Lerici by the Sea to enjoy a dinner extraordinaire at Ristorante i Pescatori.

Partial English, botched-up Italian, staying clutched to the bus driver’s hip, I finally make it to a hidden away secret that very, very few tourists get to see. And is it worth it? You be the judge.

Why can't Washington be like this? Look at this scene!

And doing a 180 I see Lerici’s Main Street.

Oh, shut UP, is this to live for, or what?!

It’s about 6:00 pm, and I start looking around for our Restaurant. Between passers-by and store owners I end up locating tonight’s adventure.

Tucked away down a side street is what I hope to be as Paolo told me, "Come with an empty stomach because you're going to roll out of there!" Of course, he doesn't really know how much this little guy can pack away.

Well, no one is there. The front door is locked. And I know I have to make a reservation because I’ve been told that this place sells out every night. I must remember that real Italians eat later, and since it’s only 6:15 I decide to hang around a bit.

Finally an unassuming, American-looking short blond woman walks toward the restaurant and I ask her if she knows what time it opens. Um, no go on that one. She only speaks Italian. (Dictionary time!).

Turns out she’s one of the owners and takes my name for the reservation. Dinner starts at 7:30 so I can return then.

What to do in the mean time? Let’s explore.

Going down a back alley I deliver myself onto a mouth-dropping close look at the sea.

And then get lulled into a trance gazing at these clear waters.

I walk some more and find a sidewalk café to sit for awhile and enjoy an aperitif.

And while I sitting looking out at the water, I see a very strange thing.

And then I hear a very strange (but fun) sound!

It’s getting close to dinner time and I have to make a stop at the WC before dining.

This was the only choice, and I was rather elated I decided to visit BEFORE dinner. God forbid I'd have to sit down!

I decide to eat outside rather than inside the restaurant. I am SO jazzed to find out what everyone has been talking about. I’ve never eaten at a restaurant that didn’t offer a menu.

Great looking Umbrellas and fun Director's Chairs with their name imprinted on them.

A close-up of my table setting.

I'm seated at a table for 1 by one of the servers, offered Fresh Bread, a choice of Mineral Water or Frizzante (I love Frizzante which is sparkling), and a liter of White Wine. And there's a little towelette to clean up after dinner. I have NO clue what's about to happen.

Nothing in my 56 years of life has prepared me for this next moment ~ my appetizer.

Then a man dressed differently from the other servers comes over to welcome me.

As unassuming as the short blond woman, this tall dark man is the husband and co-owner of the restaurant. And even though he speaks perfect English, I was too embarrassed to ask him what I was about to eat. So I decided, hey, it's fresh, I'm in Italy, I'm being spoiled, sit back, relax and enjoy.

When I was a little boy my mom always encouraged me to be a member of the CPC. You don’t know what that stands for? Oh, you’ve missed out. It stands for the Clean Plate Club. Which is just what I did with all those appetizers!

Then comes the pasta.

Pasta with fresh Mussels, Clams, Shrimp and who knows? SO yummy!

As I was savoring this pasta dish, I took a moment’s rest to watch the day sky give way to evening.

Just pause whatever you're doing, jump into my mind and body, and think about where we are and what we're doing. Pure bliss isn't it?

And then arrives the Main Course.

I know, I know. It's blurry. No it's not the wine. You see, by this time my stomach was sufficiently protruding that I could rest my camera on it to surreptitiously take a picture. Yup, the camera was just a little too close.

And then another dish. Unbelievable.

By this time I was cursing whatever Board of Directors created the CPC, and only barely touched the very tasty Fried Calamari, Shrimp and various other scaly things.

A light dessert.

There was only this one choice of dessert, a light Sorbet. A very wise decision on their part because anything else of substantial mass would never have slithered down as easily as sorbet!

And the finale.

Tummy picture? No. Too much wine? I'll never tell.

As you can see, Paolo was right. I rolled out of there, sideways, as a barrel down a hill. And can you imagine all that food and wine was only 35 Euro?!

The bus and train rides home to Monterosso were most welcomed. And then the walk up the hill to my apartment was a constant dialog with the froggies of how I wish I could belch as easily as they.

Tomorrow we leave the Italian Riviera to venture inland to a city that Rick Steves’ says is a must. The charming city of Lucca.

Do come back because I’m having SO much fun with you!

Tags: calamari, Campari and soda, clams, fresh fish, Italy, Lerici, limoncello, mussels, pasta, Ristorante i Pescatori, shrimp, sidewalk cafe, sorbet, sunset, water closet, WC

This entry was posted on Thursday, July 23rd, 2009 at 12:21 PM and is filed under Italy Adventure. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.