Siena On My Own
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I’m getting ready to leave Florence for Siena and I hear something that is not found in America.
The moment has arrived and it’s one of those role-reversals. I’m the kid, and my daughter is the grown-up endeavoring to jam-pack into my confused head all there is to know about traveling on a Train to get to Siena, Italy. Here goes.
First thing is to get on Bus #23 to the Firenze Train Station. And by now, you and I are experts at traveling on a bus, aren’t we?!
This is the (imposing) Firenze Train Station. My mission (should I decide to accept it!) was to find the Biglietteria, the Ticket Office.
A typical Train Ticket. Time to brag about how such a good student I am.
- Adulti ~ The most empowering word on the entire ticket. The Ticket Seller obviously felt that I fit into this class of humans, so I MUST be able to do this scarey train ride thing on my own! Geez, I feel like I’m 56 going on 7!
- Data – 16.05 ~ The date of departure. Europe places the day before the month, so this example would be May 16th. Europeans use a period (.) rather than a slash (/) or dash (-) for the date.
- Ora – 09.03 ~ The hour of departure. And by the way, for time designations, European train schedules use the 24 hour clock and they do not use the colon (9:03), they use a period and the zero (09.03), which represents 3 minutes after 9 in the a.m. If it said 17.30, that would be 5:30 p.m.
- Partenza – Monterosso ….. Arrivo – Viareggio ~ The departure and arrival cities. Partenza means departure Arrivo means arrival. Kind of close to English. This won’t be too tough.
- Data – 16.05 ~ The date of arrival, May 16th.
- Ora – 10.00 ~ The hour of arrival, 10 a.m.
- Treno 645 ~ This is the train number. I’m sure all of you out there know what Treno stands for, huh? (I’m feelin’ rather cocky now. Goodbye 7, hello again 56!)
- Carozza 010 ~ Means Car or Coach. So, I have to look for the number 10 on the outside of one of the cars.
- Posti 66 ~ Position 66. Posti sort of looks like position, doesn’t it? Finestrino ~ Have no clue. I figured if I could get my butt down in Seat 66 in the 10th Car, I was doing just fine! Turns out that Finestrino means window seat.
- EUR *****8.00 ~ This particular ticket cost 8 Euros, or approximately $11.00.
An electronic Train Schedule Board where you locate your Train Number and the "Binario" or Platform where you board your train.
Uh, like uh, how am I supposed to get to my train? Something tells me that I shouldn't be braving it over the tracks.
A definite "sign" that confirmed my hunch NOT to cross the tracks. So now what? I have no idea how to ask, "How do I get across the tracks?" in Italian. Fortunately my perplexed and panicked pout encountered a man that pointed to . . .
OK guys, 30 years away from traveling has definitely taken its toll. It wasn't even in the back of my mind to even THINK ABOUT an underground passageway to get across. I'm sure even that chicken could have figured out how to get to the other side. Oh cluck!
Once underground, I remember to look for my Binario, my Platform number.
I make it to the top of the stairs, only to find myself in another quandry. Which side do I wait on? Well fortunately, Italian numbers are similar to English!! (Hey, no remarks from the peanut gallery. I need all the help I can get at this moment.)
Great looking trains. Wait 'till you see the inside.
Here are a couple of different styles of train seats. Extremely comfortable and CLEAN.
A Train Time Stamp Validation Machine. I saw them around the Train Station but was beginning to wonder where they kept them on the train.
I fumblingly engaged in an Italian conversation with the woman across from me to ask her where the time stamp machine was. Turns out that I was asking her where they kept the automobiles ~ which got me nowhere. I then decided to pull out my train ticket and frantically started jabbing at the air, endeavoring to imitate the action of putting the ticket in the time stamp machine. NOW she got it.
What ensued was absolutely terrifying, humiliating and down-right hilarious. So, here I am, thinking I’ll be thrown off the train because the Italian woman somehow got me to understand that I had to validate my ticket BEFORE I got on the train. Oy!
She then said the only thing to do now was to go see the Conductor to get it validated. Oh . . . my . . . gosh. The Conductor? You gotta be kidding. For the next 4 sweat-filled minutes I was trying to figure out that this woman was saying that I had to get up, go to the front of the train and KNOCK ON THE DOOR where the conductor sits and have him validate my ticket.
I arise, walk past scores of gawking, laughing Italians (they know where I'm headed) and fearfully knock on the door at the front of the train. God only knows what I said, but the Conductor understood, smiled and validated my ticket. I was only there for a few seconds, but I thought, WOW these guys aren't worried about being highjacked, and I'm at the front of a MOVING TRAIN. So . . . PICTURE TIME!!!
I arrive in Siena in one piece and pull out my new companion, my Travel Bible (AKA Rick Steves’ Florence & Tuscany), to figure out how to find the hotel I’ll be staying at, Hotel Alma Domus.
I wasn't really alone on this trip. Rick Steve's was with me every minute of every day. Well, except while showering.
After a bus ride from the Train Station to the center of town, I meander my way to my hotel and capture a magnificent view of Siena.
A city built on a hilltop with the familiar Bell Tower in the background.
The hotel I’m staying at is very modestly priced and is a converted Nun’s Convent. It’s called Alma Domus, recommended by my new friend, Rick (Steves).
See those stairs leading to the Hotel entrance? By the time this trip is over the muscles in my legs will rival Brad Pitt's in the movie "Troy".
The entry courtyard to the Hotel Alma Domus. Isn't this quaint? I can tell that the rest of my solo trip is going to be SUCH a treat!
I wasn't after extravagance on this trip. I wanted to experience the local culture. My room was simple, comfy, had a view of Siena and an unusual bathroom with the shower incorporated within the room itself.
Now here's an ingenius practice. In order to activate the electricity in my hotel room, I had to put this plug (which was attached to my room key) into a socket. That way, when the guest leaves the room, there is no residual electricity being wasted. VERY eco conscious, don't you think?
This hotel had an elegant Reading Room with a piano.
OK, let’s go see Siena.
All right, call me kookie, but the first thing that caught my eye wasn't some glorious sculpture or priceless painting. It was these funny vertical spikes in high places on buildings. It took me awhile to figure out that these prevented birds from nesting -- and pooping upon passing people!
One of the great attractions in Siena is Il Campo, their largest marketplace.
Imagine this huge square -- actually a circle -- whose perimeter is lined with shops and cafés, and people everywhere, chatting, shopping, sunbathing. And here is where the town Bell Tower is.
This place is HUGE yet so personally inviting. Sweeping it wouldn't be fun though.
The infamous outside café. Even more picturesque than any movie could portray.
And right in the center of the square is fresh water to refill your bottle. A wonderful free offering of Italy everywhere.
Given that Il Campo is a circular square, it is surrounded by a circular street where you casually stroll and shop, listening to a language that mesmerizes me with people who laugh a lot and talk with their hands. I was thinking if someone were handcuffed they wouldn’t be able to speak!
So, I ventured into the surrounding circular street and caught glimpse of some magnificent architecture whose ceiling was a breathtaking painting.
And now it was time to eat - one of my favorite passtimes. I followed Rick Steves’ advice and tried a small little pub called Bar Paninoteca San Paolo.
An adorable decorated little pub along the Il Campo Square with 50 different choices of sandwiches. I was determined to make THIS panino adventure something special!
Pretty cute, huh?
My tummy said yummy to this panino. I had a glass of Chianti, a view of the open square and am enjoying the moment. Just this moment.
I marveled at the creativity of the design of the local shops. Located in little nooks and crannies these shops constantly fulfilled my dream to experience the local culture.
Such artistry in presentation.
Tasty looking, aren't they?
Just the exterior design makes you want to see what's inside!
I decided get off the beaten path and saw some rather unique sights.
Not just any ole' street lamp, for sure.
It was a very hot day walking around with no shade to be had. Except for this smart little cat.
Much to my surprise I found out that most Italians do not own a dryer but make use of Mother Nature.
I was taking a sneak peek over some wall only to find someone's beautiful front garden.
The day was advancing, I got back on the main street, and found myself thirsty. No, I did not buy a cold Coke or Iced Tea. An Italian wouldn’t do THAT. A real Italian would order an . . .
I figured that it was time to begin to live by the ole' adage, "When in Rome . . ."
I thoroughly enjoyed my espresso (fighting the American program in my mind that was screaming, “It’s hot outside and I’m drinking a HOT coffee. I should be quenching my parched mouth and sweaty brow with a cold iiiiiiiiiiiiiiced teeeeeeeeeeea.” But nope. Not this born-again Italian. I’m fitting into this culture no matter WHAT!
Which brings me to my next decision to go back to my hotel room and take a nice COLD SHOWER to get ready for my evening in Siena.
Ciao for now.
Tags: Bar Paninoteca San Paolo, Biglietteria, binario, church bells, conductor, espresso, Firenze Train Station, Hotel Alma Domus, Il Campo, outside cafe, Rick Steves, Siena, sottopassaggio, street lamp, train ticket, train tracks
June 15th, 2009 at 4:03 PM
iced tea
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[...] No, I did not buy a cold Coke or Iced Tea. An Italian wouldn’t do THAT. A real Italian would order an . . . I figured that it was time to begin to live by the ole’ adage, “When in Rome . . .” I thoroughly enjoyed my espresso (fighting … […..
June 15th, 2009 at 7:39 PM
Rick Steves is one of our favorite travel programs but he just doesn’t have your sense of openess and fun.
I have enjoyed every episode of Traveling with Ricky
June 15th, 2009 at 10:57 PM
You are so BRAVE!!! I’m half Italian, but I’d still be scared to death of trying to make my way around an unfamiliary country and a language I don’t speak. You are AMAZING! And a terrific tour guide! Perhaps you missed your calling.